A saree can convert a lady into an artist’s muse, is rightly said by several eminent designers. This six yard of sheer elegance has its origin in the Indus Valley Civilisation, which came into being in North-West India during 2800–1800 BC. Indian women have been illustrating a huge variety of saree draping styles, starting from Nivi style of Deccan to Atpoure style of Bengal. Considered as a cultural icon, the saree is worn with a fitted bodice and a petticoat, which is generally fabricated from a soft and breathable material, like cotton. 

How did this Name Originate?

The Hindustani word ‘Saree’ is derived from the Sanskrit word ‘Sati’ and Pali word ‘Sadi’, which means a 'strip of cloth'. Gradually, with the development of modern Indian languages, the word ‘Saree’ came into form. In ancient Sanskrit Literature, the word 'Sattika' has been mentioned to describe women’s attire. Even in Jatakas, we can find several mentions and descriptions of the attire which is comparable to modern-day ‘Saree’.

The Nine Yard Wonder: Origin

The history of the origin of saree-like drapery can be traced back to the Indus Valley Civilisation. It was around the 5th millennium BCE when cotton began to be cultivated and woven in the Indian subcontinent. Indigo, red magger, lac, and turmeric were used as dyes during this era. 

The reference of ‘Sattika’ or ‘Saree’ can be found in various ancient literary texts. Evolved from a three-piece ensemble that consists of the lower garment, Antriya; Uttariya, the veil; and the chest band, known as Stanapatta. The mentions of Sarees can also be found in various Sanskrit works; for example in Kadambari by Banabhatta and in ancient Tamil poetry, such as Silappadhikaram, where women are depicted in exquisite drapery. According to several paintings and sculptures, bodices are believed to have progressed around the 2nd century BCE to the 6th century CE. 

Handloom sarees made of silk, cotton, block-print, ikkat, and embroidery, have been worn by women for centuries. For formal occasions or in the glee of festivities, women wear brocade silk sarees, such as Banarasi, Gadwal, Kanchipuram, Bhagalpuri, Balchuri, Chanderi, and so on. As an everyday attire, silk, ikat, and cotton sarees are mostly preferred. In the monsoons, block-print and tie-dyed sarees, such as Bandhani, Bagru, Leheriya, Kalamkari, Ajrakh, Sungudi are traditionally worn. However, in the present times, fabrics like georgette, polyester, and charmeuse are widely chosen.

Styles of Draping Sarees

According to the documentation of a Saree historian, Ṛta Kapur Chishti, there are 108 ways of draping a saree. In her book, ‘Saris: Tradition and Beyond’, she talks about the diverse styles of saree drapes across various states of India.

This unstitched attire is typically Indian and is generally wrapped around the waist, where one end is draped over the shoulder, baring the midriff. Nonetheless, the drapery can be arranged in different other styles, depending on the region. Let us discuss a few styles of draping the yard of elegance.

  • Nivi style, Deccan: To adorn this style, one must arrange the pleats and pass it through the legs, tucking into the waist at the back. This style of draping permits unrestricted movement while thoroughly covering the legs.

  • Kodagu style, Karnataka: Women belonging to the Kodagu district of Karnataka are seen to adorn this style, where the pleats are arranged in the rear side and the loose end of the saree is wrapped over the right shoulder back-to-front.

  • Bengali style, West Bengal: Traditionally, Bengali women graced the atpoure style, which was to be draped with box pleats in the front, while the veil appeared on both shoulders. The veil allowed the women to tie the bunch of keys, which signified their respect and honour.

    Tagore family plays a significant part in modernizing the bravura. It was Jnanadanandini Devi who came up with the idea of wearing a chemise (blouse) and petticoat, which not only made it comfortable for women but also revolutionized the art of draping a saree and immortalized the Tagorian way of doing it.

  • Seedha Pallu, Orissa, Gujarat, and Uttar Pradesh: This style is similar to ‘lehenga-choli’, where the veil is used instead of a dupatta. This particular style not only allows us to exhibit the intricate detailing around the veil but also permits free movements.

Types of Indian Traditional Sarees

Each state of our incredible country possesses its own unique charm. When it comes to sarees, the exquisite and magnificent craftsmanship leaves us spellbound. Here is a list of a few traditional sarees that have defined grace since time immemorial.

  • Kanjeevaram Silk Sarees, Tamil Nadu: Typically worn during weddings and festivals, the Kanjeevaram Silk sarees are widely known for their vivacious colours and temple-patterned borders. However, even in the northern part of India, these sarees have gradually gained popularity.

  • Chanderi Saree, Madhya Pradesh: Famed for its lightweight fabric and charming borders, the Chanderi saree showcases a blend of simplicity and style. These sarees are available in various patterns and are used for daily wear.

  • Baluchari Saree, West Bengal: Baluchari Silk Sarees represent timeless fashion, exhibiting both tradition and modernity. The specialty of these draperies is their borders that illustrate scenes from ancient epics.

  • Chikankari Saree, Lucknow: Chikankari is considered not only a brilliant artwork but also a flourishing culture in Lucknow. The word ‘Chikan’ means embroidery. Traditionally, these embroidery masterpieces were woven on muslin cloth. Nevertheless, presently, they are carried out in all kinds of fabrics. Be it a party or any sort of occasion, these divinely embroidered Chikankari sarees impart sophistication and grace.

  • Bomkai Saree, Orissa: Also termed as Sonepuri saree, Bomkai is available both in silk and cotton fabric. These graceful draperies showcase a tribal tinge and are fabricated and designed by the Bhulia community of Odisha.

  • Banarasi Silk Sarees, Uttar Pradesh: These sarees make an outstanding choice for bridal wear in the Northern part of India. They are divinely handwoven in Varanasi and exemplify an intermingling of spectacular colours. Their sheen texture and golden embroidery make them an excellent piece of art.

  • Muga Silk Saree, Assam: Muga Silk Sarees are fabricated through an enthralling process of sourcing the silk from the silkworms and weaving them. These sarees are the epitome of grace and elegance.

With the development of textiles in India, today, sarees became marvelous art pieces in themselves. Nowadays, platforms like ARTSofINDIA.in and several similar websites are working hard in upholding the art of weaving and recognizing the skilled artists behind them.

The increasing foreign influence made sarees the first Indian international garment. Although started as India’s first seamless attire, sarees progressively became the symbol of empowerment and femininity.



Picture Source: Wikipedia