The Applique Craft is a unique sewing technique where the fabric patches are layered upon a foundation fabric to finally stitch in the same place with the help of a machine or by hand where the raw edges are turned or covered by decorative stitching. Something that stayed skiing with the kings of India irrespective of the situations, was the luxury that can be observed in the fine craftsmanship.

Origin and History

The history of Applique Craft in India can be traced back to the earlier times in the northern regions of Gujarat, which can be identified with the help of their style of fabrication, composition, patterns, and similar others. The Kathis, Mahajans, the Nomad camel herders, were the prominent producers of applique crafts in the region. 

Like patchwork, applique craftwork is the method of constructing or embroidering quilts. This craft is used around the globe to design banners, display items, or on clothes. 

How Are The Applique Crafts Made? 

The traditional applique craftwork is made particularly on the fabrics of red, black, yellow, green, or white fabric. The base of the material is prepared in the shape of an oval, circle, square, or rectangle that will form the background. Over this stitched material, with varied colors of threads and tiny mirrors are added to the cloth after the embroidery is done. 

The elegance of the applique craft depends on the intricacy of the work and the stitches, which are chikan, guntha, turpa, and similar other techniques. The beauty of the craft is enhanced with the correct choice and usage of small mirrors and metal pieces used in the cloth. 

To start with the crafting, a coloring cloth will be cut with the required shape that is drawn with a stencil and stitched together to make the applique cloth. With the help of simple stitching techniques, the mirrors or metal pieces are attached to the cloth. Some artisans even stitch the borders along with other embroidery designs to give an attractive look. 

Forms of Applique Works

The concept of applique work generally revolves around stitching different clothes together in a specific design. With the usage of varied colors of threads, and the mirrors or metal pieces, the beauty of the work is enhanced. It can be a great way to adorn cushions, homewares, and similar others. 

The varied types of applique works are: 

  • Raw-edge Applique:
    This can be done by machine or through hand stitches, and some exquisite designs can be done without any hard work. This type of applique work is effective for smaller projects that do not require the proper finishing of the edges. 

  • Smooth Edge Applique:
    This type can be executed by machines to give the raw edges a smooth finish that makes the whole work look tidy and smooth.

  • Reverse Applique:
    It is quite an interesting type of applique work as instead of sewing the fabric on top, a layering is done and a motif is stitched at the top. The parts that reveal the shape are cut properly from the fabric. 

  • Multiple-Hoop Needle Applique:
    If more advanced designs are required and larger hoops, then this technique can be utilized. The stitches are created on the designs after which the fabric in the background is repositioned to get each section stitched equally. The Multiple-Hoop Needle Applique gives a more detailed design and complete look. 

  • Decorative Stitch Applique:
    While sewing with a machine, the decorative stitch applique work can be tried to make the fabric look more vibrant than all. The artisans with high sewing skills try this type of applique work that gives an exquisite look to the fabric.

Methods Of Applique Application 

The application method depends on the expertise in the craft, the type of design required, preferences, and similar other aspects. The prominent methods of applique application are: 

  • Machine Applique:
    There are two primary procedures for completing applique utilizing the sewing machine. The traditional procedure, which is more advanced, involves sewing an arrangement line, positioning your portion of fabric more massive than the line over the stitches, and then finishing the second row of stitches to affix the fabric to the base material. Once this is finalized, the extra fabric is trimmed away to disclose decorative applique patterns. This category of applique can be time-consuming but is rewarding. 
  • Hand Applique:
    Largely several variations of applique are done using a machine, but hand-applying applique is often utilized for quilting and is perfect for developing dimensional layouts on your fabric. Hand sewn applique is nearly just sewing a structure to a piece of fabric using a needle and thread, but there are various ways to do it. 

  • Fused Applique:
    Sewing applique by conventional means can be very time-consuming, so today a lot of people use fusible web which is normally an iron-on glue, to develop elegant designs. If you’re after a quick way to create a helpful design, the fusing procedure is your best bet. The fabric shapes are fused to the base fabric using the web, and then machine sewing on top holds the pieces together and provides an embroidered close.

Main Centers Of Applique Crafts

Applique craft is a major work of experimentation with varieties of fabrics and designs to bring out the best of the designs. Though the craft derives its origin from France, this ornamental craftwork has its roots spread in several parts of India where it has been present there from the early decades and the artisans produced famous applique crafts such as display pieces, banners, tents, and similar others. 

The prominent centers of applique work in India are the Saurashtra, Kutch, Patan, and Banaskantha regions of Gujarat. The specific color palettes used by the artists in these regions are warm to cool, bright shades, and natural to neutral tones. 

This craftwork was also prominently practiced around several areas of Orissa, particularly for the banners designed during the Rath Yatra of Lord Jagannath. Pipli is a renowned name in the creation and survival of this unique craft. 

Application of Applique Craftwork

Applique Craftwork is the basic craft of layering and stitching fabrics of different shapes and sizes to give a specific design or pattern. The application of the craft dates back to the early days at the native communities of Gujarat which were used in making tents of carts, hangings, and similar others. The craft is the stitching of similar patterned fabrics to create a composed work. The craftwork is presently practiced at several parts of Orissa, Gujarat, and similar regions. The products of the craftwork are sold through exhibitions as well as sales that are held over Delhi, Bangalore, Calcutta, and similar other cities.

Notable Applique Artisans In India

Kartik Chauhan of Gujarat is one of the most remarkable artists who has been honing the Applique craft for the past fifteen years. Besides conducting several development programs and workshops, and rooting for women's artisanal empowerment, he has been actively working to explore international avenues to facilitate trade. For his excellent work in the field of Applique Craft Work, Kartik Chauhan has bagged Kamala Award.

There are also a few other notable applique artisans of India who are creating an enriching platform for the growth and prosperity of the craft form. 

The Applique Craftworks are majorly influenced by the everyday materials involved in our daily lives like flowers or flower gardens. The craft is perfect to match any occasion be it a get-together, social events, religious festivals, or similar others. The shades and detailed works of this craft attract the attention of everyone and make the festival more vibrant.



Picture Source: Antima Khanna