India is a country with lots of versatility. It is infused with rich cultural and traditional heritage. Various forms of arts are prevalent which make India distinctive in its own way. 

And Kalamkari painting is one such traditional art form of India which has got immense popularity. The word ‘KALAMKARI’ emerged from the Persian words QALAM (pen) and KARI (craftsmanship).  The process involves mainly painting natural dyes on fabrics like silk or cotton with the help of a ‘kalam’ or a bamboo pen. This exquisite art form is very much prominent in Andhra Pradesh. There are mainly two varieties of styles – the Srikalahasti style and the Machilipatnam style. The Srikalahasti style is entirely handwork done with the ‘kalam’ or pen and is found in the Chittoor district of Andhra Pradesh. And Machilipatnam style requires vegetable-dyed block-painting on the fabric and can be traced in the city of Pedana, which is very close to Machilipatnam in the Krishna district of Andhra Pradesh.  

HISTORY AND ORIGIN OF KALAMKARI PAINTING:

Many centuries back the painters and folk singers used to travel from one village to another. And while travelling they used to narrate the mythological stories to the villagers. But gradually this process shifted to canvas painting when it was first brought into the limelight. Historians believe that this art is dated back around 3000 B.C. and its presence was also found in excavation sites of Mohenjo-Daro.

This ancient art form got recognition in India in the 14th century in the middle ages when Golconda Sultanate in Hyderabad was at its peak. In Golconda province and in Coromandel this art form was patronized by the Mughals and the artists were known as “OUALAMKARS”. It is from this the word “KALAMKARI” has emerged. 

THEME AND TECHNIQUES USED IN KALAMKARI:

The theme is mainly surrounded by the epics of Puranas, Ramayana, and Mahabharata. Nowadays the images of Buddha and Buddhist art forms can also be seen. Again, pictures of flowers, musical instruments, small animals, and SWASTIKA, the Hindu symbol are also found in recent times.

Pure cotton fabric is most suitable for Kalamkari painting where the prints are created with the help of hand-carved wooden blocks. Firstly, the prints are drawn on paper and then they are transferred to the hand-carved blocks for the final printing. It mainly goes through 17 stages from getting ready for the fabric from the beginning to the final washing. These stages are done very carefully until they are ready for use. To remove the starches from raw cotton the fabric is dipped in a mixture of cow dung and water and in this way the fabric gets naturally bleached. Then it is washed properly with water. Then it is ready for the next step after it is dried properly under the sun. Then a solution is prepared which is a combination of buffalo milk and natural seeds obtained from trees and is known as Myrobalan where it is dipped again. After keeping the fabric in this solution for almost a couple of hours it is taken out, squeezed, and again dried. This solution actually helps in setting the base as an off-white tone also acts as a natural fixative when the dyes are applied to the fabric afterward. The milk in the solution helps in controlling the dye from spreading on the cloth. Now again it is dried and is finally prepared for the printing.

COLOURS USED IN KALAMKARI PAINTING:

The colours are mainly obtained from natural sources and vegetables. There is no use of chemicals and artificial ingredients in this colour making. Various types of leaves, crushed flowers, roots, seeds, cow dung, copper, tin, mineral salts of iron, and many other things are used for making several colours. For example, black colour is obtained by combining water, iron filings, and jaggery. This colour is used to outline the sketches. Similarly, pomegranate peels are boiled to form yellow or mustard colour. Blue is derived from indigo and green is formed by blending blue and yellow together. Algirin or bark of madder is used to create a red colour. 

RENOWNED ARTISTS OF KALAMKARI PAINTING:

In recent times the most noted craftsman of kalamkari painting is Padma Shri Jonnalagadda Gurappa Chetty. He is the son of the last survivor of kalamkari artists in Andhra Pradesh in the year 1940. His exquisite work of art brought him acclamation all over India. In 1976 he received the Presidential National Award for Craftsmanship and also several other awards. But he was awarded the most prestigious award Padma Shri by the President of India in 2008 for his excellent contribution to this art.

Another noted artisan of kalamkari painting from Srikalahasti is Dr Jonnalagadda Niranjan. He belongs to the 4th generation of kalamkari artists. He is the son of Shri J. Gurappa Chetty. Neeli Gurappa is one such artist who invented the blue colour Neeli hence known as Neeli Gurappa. Lakshmaiah deserves a special mention as he was crucial for the development of kalamkari. Again, Anita Reddy from Karnataka has a huge contribution. She has helped the workers by empowering them and thus reviving this exquisite art. She even formed a society for the kalamkari artisans named the Development of Weavers and Rural Artisans in Kalamkari Art (DWARAKA).

CURRENT SCENARIO:

Kalamkari had faced a phase of decline. but the current scenario is totally different. there is a huge craze for kalamkari art nowadays. This art has been revived by many renowned fashion designers who have incorporated this art form into their works. the fashion industry has boosted this art form both nationally and internationally. The religious myths are depicted on the sarees giving them an elegant style. Moreover, the patterns and motifs have got unique and contemporary touch making it more gorgeous. It can also be found in dupattas, stoles, and various types of merchandise like salwar suits, shirts, t-shirts, and bedsheets. even kalamkari paintings are found in wall panels and wall hangings. Nowadays the fabric is not limited to cotton, instead many experiments have been done on tussar, silk, georgette, and chiffon.  

Nowadays the online platforms promote this type of traditional art form on their websites and encourage the artists of India. Online platforms like ARTSofINDIA.in not only salute the majestic craftsmanship of the kalamkari artists but also promote their artwork on this online website.


Picture Source: D'Source (Google)