India is an incredibly rich country when it comes to the craftsmanship brilliance of the diverse artisans all across the country. Embroidery is the art of embellishing fabric or other materials with the help of thread or yard which is applied using a needle. At times, embroidery also involves materials like beads, pearls, quills, and sequins. The fabrics are adorned with motifs, geometric patterns, or abstract designs. In terms of traditional textiles, each state of the country has exhibited its unique expertise in crafts. Likewise, different embroideries can be found in different states that illustrate their novelty and innovation. 

Chain stitch, buttonhole stitch, running stitch, cross-stitch, and satin stitch, are a few of the basic and essential techniques of hand embroidery today. The craft incorporates dozens of regional styles varying in materials and techniques.

Embroidery in India: Origin

Archaeological findings, such as needles and embroidered fabrics around 2000 BC affirm the origin of the craft of embroidery during this period. The development of sewing, tailoring, patching and mending fostered the art of embroidery in India. During the 16th Century, under Emperor Akbar’s rule, the craft began to progress to notable recognition.
Embroidery, however, has a significant part in forming biographies of several women. In the earlier times, women were denied formal education, while learning the art forms was kept mandatory. It is through the art of embroidery, these women accomplished in documenting their stories. 

Embroidery in machines developed gradually during the Industrial Revolution. The first-hand embroidery machine was invented in the year 1832 in France by Josué Heilmann. Finally, in the latter half of the 19th century, the manufacture of machine-made embroideries was observed.

Techniques and Materials

Embroidery is fundamentally based on stitching and hence, the main tool needed for the art is a needle which is available in several sizes and types. For years, textiles such as wool, silk, and linen have been used both as fabrics and yarns.
At present, besides the traditional fabrics, rayon, cotton, and novelty yarns form the manufacturer of the embroidery threads. An embroidery hoop or frame is used to stretch the fabric and make the stitching work even, preventing any distortion of the patterns or motifs. Both in canvas embroidery and surface embroidery, a wide range of stitching patterns with vibrant-hued yarns are seen.

Types of Embroidery Techniques

The various forms of stitching techniques are illustrated to offer a diversity in effects and to outline the elements of designs. A few of the custom-made and machine-driven techniques are: 

  • Counted Thread Embroidery: To generate symmetrical stitches, for every stitch, threads are being counted in every fabric. One of the most common counted thread embroideries is the cross stitching.

  • White-work Embroidery: Termed as ‘French Laid’ work, this technique is generally employed upon white fabric and with white yarn or floss. Broderie Anglaise and shadow work are some of the popular white-work embroideries.

  • Candlewicking Embroidery: Considered as the ‘traditional embroidery technique’ because of the ‘colonial knots’ being stitched on the design lines, candlewicking embroidery employs unbleached cotton yarns upon unbleached muslin.

  • Fish Scale Embroidery: In this technique, embroidery designs are crafted with the help of the scales of fish, such as goldfish. The scales are first prepared and thereafter the holes are made at the base of each scale and are stitched on the fabric. This form of embroidery is mostly fashioned on velvet. 

  • Patchwork Embroidery: This is one of the commonest techniques used in embellishing quilts. Patchwork embroidery encompasses an assortment of small pieces of fabrics that are assembled according to the aesthetics and stitched upon a fabric base. 

Indian Traditional Embroideries

History has observed embroidery as an activity, pastime, or hobby, limited only to the feminine gender. However, in the present scenario, embroidered works reflect the exquisite craftsmanship and creativity of the Indian artisans, which include both men and women.

Diverse aspects of regional specialty form the variety of Indian embroidery. It includes Kantha embroidery of West Bengal, Kasuti embroidery from Karnataka, Kashida from Kashmir, Chikankari from Uttar Pradesh, Phulkari from Punjab, and so on. 

  • Phulkari Embroidery, Punjab: Since the 15th century, Phulkaris have been symbolizing prosperity and happiness, especially in the lives of brides and married women. The word ‘Phulkari’ comes from the Sanskrit word ‘Phul’ meaning flower and ‘Kari’ meaning work. Khadi fabric forms the base material, upon which floss silk threads are used to embroider geometric patterns and motifs. Mostly, darning stitches are employed to create a vibrant effect. In rural Punjab, Phulkaris and Baghs are traditional embroidered shawls.

  • Kasuti Embroidery, Karnataka: Derived from the words ‘Kai’ and ‘Suti’ meaning hand and cotton respectively, this form of traditional folk embroidery is hand-crafted on cotton. Inspired by everyday objects, such as architecture, flora, and fauna of the region, the motifs are created with a combination of horizontal, vertical, and diagonal stitches. Kasuti embroidery has been the main source of income for several rural women for years. It involves intricate detailing and great skills of the artisans so that both side of the embroidery look alike. Besides saree borders, blouses, and accessories, today Kasuti embroideries are also employed on bedcovers, cushion covers, curtains, and so on.

  • Chikankari, Uttar Pradesh: Besides being a fundamental form of embroidery in India, Chikankari embroidery upholds the life and culture of Lucknow. Using a herringbone stitch from the other side of the fabric, it creates a shadow. The most remarkable feature is the intricate net effect on the fabric. Stitches such as flat stitch, running stitch, cross-stitch, and embossed stitch are generally employed to create motifs, which are inspired by the objects of nature.

  • Kantha Embroidery, Bengal: Progressed as a folk art of Bengal, the motifs are inspired by divine symbols such as lotus, deities, and floral designs stitched together with a simple running stitch. The threads were mainly taken from the borders of old sarees. The word ‘Kantha’ means ‘rags’ in Sanskrit and was traditionally created to provide protection from cold. However, depending on the use of the product, this art form encompasses several types such as Baiton Kantha, Sujni Kantha, Arshilata Kantha, Durjani Kantha, Lep Kantha.

  • Zardosi, India: Also termed as ‘Bharatkam’ of India, Zardosi embroidery is one of the most difficult forms of embroidery in India. The word ‘Zardosi’ stands for ‘gold embroidery’, and this art form has existed since the time of Rigveda. Highly skilled artisans are involved in creating intricate detailing using silver and gold threads. The grandeur is accentuated with precious stones, coloured beads, and pearls that are studded on fabrics like silk, satin, and velvet. The motifs illustrate floral and geometrical designs.
    Mostly embellished on festive outfits like lehenga choli, and saree, it is also being explored on other base materials like jute to develop products like bags, cushion covers, curtains, and enhancing fashion accessories.

  • Toda Embroidery, Tamil Nadu: Crafted exclusively by women, Toda embroidery is promoted and upheld by the Toda pastoral community of the Nilgiris. It is locally termed as ‘pukhoor’ and illustrates a fine finish. It is interesting to note that the weaving is done employing only red and black threads in a background of white cotton cloth. Another wonderful feature of this art is that it makes both sides of the embroidered fabric usable. Embroidered cloaks and shawls became a heritage of the Toda people.

  • Sujini Embroidery, Bihar: Under the protection of the GI registration act, the Sujini or Sujani embroidery work has formed a textile expressive art product. Initially crafted upon old clothes, the embroidery is carried out with simple motifs over any easily available fabric. It is crafted exclusively by the women of the villages, where they employ simple stitches to narrate stories.

  • Ajrak Embroidery, Gujarat: This innovative form of block-print embroidery has its roots in Sindh, Pakistan. Over the years, Indian states like Gujarat and Rajasthan have endorsed in upholding the Sindhi culture and traditions by exhibiting the exquisite patterns and designs of the Ajrakh embroidery.
  • Kashida Embroidery, Kashmir: Originated in the laps of Jammu and Kashmir, Kashida stands as one of the oldest forms of embroidery. The craftsmen illustrate motifs inspired by nature such as birds, flowers, vines, and leaves, using thick and vibrant threads.

  • Gota Embroidery, Jaipur: Gota embroidery forms a unique art by including gold and silver zari ribbons onto the fabric. The edges are sewn down in order to create beautiful and elaborate patterns. This technique is mostly used in South Asian wedding clothes.

  • Kutch Embroidery, Gujarat: The tribal community of Gujarat’s Kutch district is distinctly regarded as a textile and handicraft signature art tradition. Generally, this embroidery is done by the women on fabrics such as cotton, silk, and satin. Cotton and silk threads are used to illustrate the net-like art-form. Often small mirrors are sewn over which gives out a sparkling effect.

  • Banjara Embroidery, Rajasthan: With a combination of vivacity and originality, Banjara embroidery undoubtedly endorses an innovative style. Mostly marked by geometrical patterns, the craftsmen often employ embellishments such as cowrie shells, beads, and mirrors, which effectively accentuate its magnificence and brilliance.

  • Pipli Embroidery, Odisha: The art associates itself with Lord Jagannath’s religious ceremonies and has been patronized by the kings and the nobilities of Odisha. Over the years, the artisans gradually began to create decorative and utility items. The motifs represent various elements of flora and fauna and cosmic bodies such as the half-moon, the Sun, and Rahu.

  • Shisha Embroidery, Gujarat: Abhla Bharat or shisha embroidery introduced in India during the Mughal period, displays fine mirror-work on a fabric base. Metals like Tin, Silver, Beetle, and Mica were some of the traditional elements that represented the mirror-like structures. However, with time, these are replaced by glass.

Banni Heer Bharat, Karchodi, Rabari, Shamilami, and Chamba Rumal embroidery are some of the other embroideries that have made a remarkable contribution to the Indian embroidery traditions. Their exquisite designs and bright-coloured threads have made them culturally and traditionally popular all across the country.

Embroidery in India: Today
In the present scenario, embroidery as an art form has bloomed into a more sophisticated and exquisite process. Along with the stitches, the usage of diverse types of fabrics has evolved. From home décor items to apparel, the Indian craftsmen are exhibiting their creativity with embroidery art in all forms of items.



Picture Source: People's Daily Online